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Do you have a hankering for a new handlebar? Or perhaps simply some more attractive risers? How about both? It's really a simple swap, as this page will depict...
Also see the "Front End" schematics page on this site for more useful info such as recommended torque values.
When shopping for handlebars, remember that the VLX uses 4 1/2 inch riser spacing (measured from center to center). That means when ordering make sure you can order either 4 1/2" knurling (the rough "gripper" area on the bar) or smooth centers. Other spacings will work (Harley uses 3 1/2" and some other manufacturers use 4") but the knurling will be visible between the risers. For smooth bars tap some grooves into the riser area with a standard screwdriver and a hammer so the risers can achieve a firm grip to prevent slipping. Also make sure you get bars with smooth switchbox areas. You'll have to drill holes in these areas for the OEM switchbox pins, make sure you measure both sides of the OEM bar as there is a 1/2" difference between left and right due to the throttle sleeve.
Taller bars may require ditching the rubber riser bushings, or else the bars will tilt back and forth too easily. Better to solid mount the taller sets, despite the additional vibes you'll encounter on the road. Drag bars that curve rearward may have to be adjusted so they don't hit the tank on full fork lock, tilt them upwards in the risers or order some taller risers. One final note, longer brake/throttle/clutch lines may be in order for taller bars, as well as splicing and adding in extra length to the electrical lines. When stretching the electrics, splice them in different areas so when you put them back together and seal them up you don't get a bulge in the lum.
Below is a pictorial step by step how to on the handlebars and/or riser exchange.
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Step 1: Remove levers and switchboxes
(If you're just replacing the risers skip to Step 3)
If possible have a second person standing by to hold the master cylinder, you don't want it tilting and allowing air into the lines. It should be held upright with the lever facing out and top cap pointing up. Otherwise set it down carefully on a stool or other objsct and be careful not to move it. If you do, you'll have to bleed the line before riding later. |
Step 2: Remove the handgrips
Using a thin standard screwdriver, work it into the inside of the grip. Spray some WD-40 into the inside of the grip, and begin working more lubricant into the grip with the screwdriver, traveling the circumfrence of the bar. You should eventually be able to twist the grip right off. |
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Step 3: Loosen the risers
You'll need to remove the lower nuts if you have a one piece bar set-up, or if you are also replacing the risers with new ones. If you already have risers, leave this area alone and simply loosen the top halves of the risers, being careful with the handlebar as it will dive into the tank unless you or someone else is holding on to it. |
Step 4: Remove the stock handlebar
If your replacement bar isn't made to spec, you will have to drill holes into it for the switchboxes. Measure the distance from the end of your stock bar and drill the holes. Make sure you measure both ends, as there is a 1/2" difference between the two sides due to the throttle side being a different length. |
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Step 5: Install new bar
...and risers if applicable. Risers first of course. Once you have the bar lined up and centered, tighten down the top clamps (and bottom end if applicable). |
Step 6: Replace switchboxes and levers
You're almost done! Replace the switchboxes and brake/clutch levers, again being careful with the master cylinder (keep it level) so as not to allow any air into the line. Replace the grips with grip glue (available at any MC shop, cheap), make sure the insides are dry of the lubricant as it won't mix well with the glue.
Hop on the bike, lightly loosen the riser tops, and fine tune the handlebar to where you like it. Tighten everything down and enjoy the new stance! |
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| If you opt on going overboard...you'll need longer clutch, brake, throttle, and electrical lines. A VLX can accept up to a 6" mini-ape hanger bar with stock lines, although some rerouting may be in order.
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